24 January, 2021

An American and a Brit getting married in Saigon: A step-by-step guide

My partner, Andy, and I just got married in HCMC. There wasn't a huge amount of information available online about how to navigate this process, and the information we could find was often incomplete or out of date. So, we put together this comprehensive guide to help any others who might be looking to tie the knot here! Just a quick caveat - from what I understand, the process can look a little different depending on your district and nationality, so please do look into your own country's requirements if you aren't British or American!


Step 1: Consulate (Affidavit of single status and certified copy of passport)

This part was really straightforward!  I downloaded the affidavit from the US Consulate website. The American version is already translated into Vietnamese, which makes step 2 both easier and cheaper!  I made an appointment with the Consulate, paid my $100 ($50 for the passport copy and $50 for the affidavit), and walked out with my documents.  Easy peasy :)


Andy already had a certified copy of his passport (the UK consulate can make a notarised copy for GBP25), so he just had to make an appointment and get his affidavit notarized. The UK government website (linked) has the form and instructions on how to fill it in. However, they do provide the form at the consulate so you don’t need to print it out yourself.  Unfortunately, the affidavit available from the British Consulate is only in English, so Andy’s step 2 was a little more complicated than mine!  Andy paid GBP 50 for the affidavit and GBP 25 for the certified passport copy. Local notary offices in Saigon can make notarized copies of passports, which may be less expensive than at the consulate.


US Consulate General in HCMC: 4 Le Duan Blvd., Dist. 1

British Consulate General in HCMC: 25 Le Duan Blvd., Dist. 1


Step 2: Foreign affairs office (Affidavit of single status and certified copy of passport, continued)


The next part was a little harder.  I had to take my affidavit and passport copy to the foreign affairs office on Pasteur Street to be certified.  This took three trips.  However, if I’d timed it right, it might have only taken two.  Basically, you have to make a photocopy of your documents at the front (there’s a copy machine with just a small fee), then file them at two different desks.  However, the second desk where you need to take your documents has limited operating hours.  I arrived at the first desk close to 10 AM, and by the time I finished up there (just after 10), the second desk had closed for midday and was not taking any more documents until 1:30 PM.  When I returned the next day, I was told I needed to leave my documents and could come back the following day to pick them up.  There’s no way to get them back the same day, apparently.  So, three trips where it could have been two, but not too much hassle overall.


Andy’s visit to the Foreign affairs office was a bit more complicated because, as I mentioned, his documents from the British consulate were not already translated.  He had to do all the same things as me, except it took several more days before he was able to pick his documents back up.  Fortunately, the Foreign affairs office can handle any translation for you and once you have paid, anybody who has the receipt can go to collect the documents. So you could send a friend if you were unable to go yourself.


Ministry of Foreign Affairs: 184bis. Pasteur Street. Dist. 1


Step 3: Psychiatric hospital (Certification of mental health)


Here’s something no one told us before we went to the Psychiatric hospital - You need loads of passport photos!  So we actually made two trips here because we had to leave, get our passport photos, then come back later the same day.  However, this part was pretty straightforward apart from that.  I’ve seen people on online forums saying it’s impossible to go here without a Vietnamese friend to help translate, but we go on just fine on our own.  We used Google translate to navigate when necessary, and our beginner level Vietnamese otherwise.  We were directed to a small office on the second floor to fill out some paperwork with a very nice nurse.  Then the doctor arrived, asked us a couple of questions about our parents, signed our form, and sent us on our way with four copies each of our certification.  We had to pay a fee here as well - I think it was about VND 800.000 (although neither of us can remember exactly).


Psychiatric Hospital: 766 Vo Van Kiet St., Dist. 5


Step 4: District 7 People’s Committee (Marriage license application)


Something you should know about visiting the People’s Committee: They have a dress code!  Specifically, women need to be in a skirt or trousers, and men need to be in trousers.  No shorts allowed!


This step took two trips, but I think it could have been done in one if we’d had all our paperwork together already.


The first time we went, we thought we’d be able to navigate everything with Google translate and our survival-level Vietnamese.  However, the man working at the office did not want to speak to us without a translator, so we had to wait until someone arrived who could help.  She went through the checklist with me and gave me the marriage license application form.


The next time we went, we brought a Vietnamese-speaking friend to help, which really streamlined the process (thanks, Thanh!).  I think if we’d had all our paperwork and passport photos already and had brought a friend the first time, we could have filed everything right then.


We handed over all our paperwork to the man behind counter 3, and he gave us a receipt with our appointment date and time to come pick up our marriage license.


Checklist for this step:

  • Certified copies of passports, stamped by the foreign affairs office

  • Affidavits of single status, translated and stamped by the foreign affairs office

  • Certificate of mental health

  • Passport photos (yes, more)

  • Pink book


District 7 People’s Committee: 9 Tan Phu St., Dist. 7


Step 5: District 7 People’s Committee, again


Again, we asked a Vietnamese friend to join us which was a huge help (thanks, Van!).  We were a bit early for our 10:40 appointment because many government offices close at 11:00 for lunch.  We gave our receipt from the last visit and VND 1.000.000 to the man at the desk, and he gave us another receipt to take to another part of the building.  There’s a room set up with a big backdrop for you to sign your marriage license and the register.  A woman named Ms. Hung was in that room to help, and she speaks English.  She copied the details of our marriage license into the registry book, and then invited the Leader of the District People’s Committee into the room.  He presented us with our marriage license, shook our hands, and wished us well.  Van took a bunch of photos of us, and then it was done and dusted!


A note appointment times for the People’s Committee - we were pretty convinced when we received the appointment time that it was non-negotiable, so we made arrangements to have the morning off of work to pick up our license.  The day before we were supposed to go, we had a call from Ms. Hung asking to change our appointment time.  I wasn’t able to change because I had an event at school that day, but obviously the appointment time is more flexible than we thought!  So, if you get an appointment time that doesn’t work for you, send Ms. Hung (or whoever you’re in contact with) a message and see if you can change.



Final tally of cost:


  • 2x notarized affidavits - USD 118

  • 2x certified passport copies - USD 84

  • 4x photocopies at foreign affairs office - VND 8.000

  • 4x Stamps from foreign affairs office (plus one doc translated) - ~ VND 600.000

  • 12x passport photos - VND 360.000

  • Certificates from psychiatric hospital - ~ VND 800.000

  • Marriage license - VND 1.000.000

  • TOTAL: approx. VND 7.500.000


Final thoughts:


While this process really wasn’t too difficult, it was time-consuming.  All told, it took about a month from start to finish.  We did most of the legwork (steps 1-3 and part of step 4) while we were both on winter break from school, and getting all of that paperwork together took the better part of three days.  However, we didn’t have this handy dandy guide to help us streamline the process!  


I think the whole process would have taken us a lot longer (and been a lot more frustrating!) if we were trying to make it all happen around a normal work day schedule.  I’d recommend taking a full day off of work and trying to get as much done as you can on that day, knowing you might have to pop out early once or twice more for follow up trips to places like the foreign affairs office.


If you’re considering tying the knot here in Vietnam, very best of luck to you!  I hope this guide is helpful.  Leave a comment if you have any questions!

01 March, 2017

Running while female

Content warning: Sexual harassment, graphic content

I love to run.  I love the freedom, the time alone with my thoughts, the challenge to my body and mind.  I love that running makes me more in touch with my body’s needs – I notice it more when I need food or water or sleep, and I’m more willing to give my body what it needs so I can run again the next day.

It can be hard to run in Vietnam.  It’s hot, I’m slower, the air quality is poor, and I have to be really careful about sun protection.  However, in the two years I’ve lived here, I have run hundreds of miles completely alone and I haven’t ever felt unsafe.

Until yesterday.

My school is far out in the suburbs.  When I run after school, it’s often through farmland and mangrove jungle.  It’s beautiful and peaceful and the air is cleaner than around my house.  I love to run near my school.

Yesterday I was running a loop near campus that I’ve run two-three afternoons each week since August.  All was normal.  Families waved and said hello as I ran past.  Small children ran after me to try to keep up for a little while.  Dogs barked half-heartedly but then laid back down on the pavement, unwilling to stray too far from their bowl of water in the heat.  I crossed paths with a friend of mine who was running the same loop, but in the opposite direction.

I was about halfway through the loop.  I had a half mile to go before I reached the main road, and another mile or so after that to get back to school.  And suddenly, I heard a motorbike following behind me.

At first, I thought the wiry, weathered, older man on the bike just didn’t want to pass me on the narrow path.  I scooted to my right to give him room.  He didn’t pass me.  I glanced over my shoulder.  He was leering at me.  It became clear that he was following right behind me intentionally.  I stopped and gestured for him to pass me.  He drove up next to me, still leering, totally invading my space, gesturing at me and at himself and saying something I (thankfully) couldn’t understand in my limited, survival-only Vietnamese.  Incomprehensibly, I flicked him off.  I don’t even know why; I am not sure that it’s a gesture that meant anything to him.  But I was frustrated and nervous and confused and frozen and I just didn’t have any words.  Then he passed me and I sighed with relief.  I thought the interaction was over.  I thought I’d be able to finish my run in peace.

He kept looking over his shoulder at me.  I could tell that he was touching himself.  He stopped thirty yards ahead of me and turned around.  He drove back towards me.  This time, he’d pulled out his penis and was masturbating at me.  He slowed down as he approached me, leering again and saying something I couldn’t understand.  I started to panic.  I considered pushing him off his bike.  I considered kicking him.  I considered calling for help, but knew I was on the most isolated stretch of my run, in a place where no one would hear me.  I thought, “Could I take him, if it came to that?”  The moment seemed to last several long minutes, but it really couldn’t have been longer than a few seconds.  He drove off again.  I felt like crying.  Instead, I ran harder.

I was maybe 250 yards from the main road when I heard a motorbike approaching from behind again.  I started to run faster.  The motorbike was catching up, I was picking up speed, it was gaining on me, I was flat-out sprinting… and then he pulled up next to me again, still with his genitalia on full display, still touching himself, still leering at me.  I lost it.  I started screaming obscenities at him as loud as I could.  I called him every name I could think of.  There were a few people around at this point, but no one intervened.  We were almost at the intersection with the main road.  I kept screaming at him.  He veered off to the left and sped away.  I turned right, back towards school.
At this point, I had to stop and walk.  I was totally spent.  The sprint to the main road had messed up my pacing.  My body was trying to cry, but I was out of breath and all I could do was gulp in air and make this weird, strangled, sobbing sound.  While I walked, my mind was racing.

I can’t run here anymore.  I think I’ve seen him before.  He knows my schedule.  He’s following me.  What if I run here again and he follows me again and it escalates?  What if something happens to me out here and no one knows?  What if I fight him off and then next time he brings friends?  I hate him.  I hate him for ruining something I love.  I hate him for making me feel unsafe.  I hate him, I hate him, I HATE HIM.

I was angry at literally everyone.

I was so angry at this man.

But I was also angry with the people standing around who didn’t interfere.

I was angry at my school for not getting the treadmills in the weight room they’ve been promising for a year. 

I was angry at the colleagues I used to run with for not running after school anymore.

(I’m not actually mad at my friends or at my school, but I was kind of having a meltdown yesterday afternoon.)

I was angry that, after establishing such a great routine, after putting in so many hours and miles trying to get back into good distance-running shape, I felt like my efforts were going to be derailed.


And I was SO angry that even here, in Vietnam, where I’ve so rarely felt unsafe because of my gender, there are still men who want to punish me for existing in a public space while female.

05 January, 2017

Travel update 2: In which Elizabeth ventures alone (sort of) into the central highlands of Sri Lanka

After a little time in Colombo, Zack had to head to Chennai in southern India for a few days. I was dead set on getting some good hiking in on this trip, so I hopped on a train bound for the central highlands, planning to spend a few days wandering around Nuwara Eliya and Ella.

Getting to Nuwara Eliya

I rarely travel alone, and while I do like being by myself, I always worry that traveling alone will make me feel really lonely. Imagine my delight, then, when I ended up on the train to Nuwara Eliya sitting next to Stephanie, a lovely lady from Hong Kong. We were in the observation carriage at the back of the train, a great spot for stunning mountain views on the seven-hour train ride. We got to talking and found that we were both headed to the same area for the sole purpose of hiking our faces off and drowning ourselves in Ceylon tea. I hadn’t booked a hotel yet, so Stephanie invited me to stay with her. As the train snaked its way slowly into the mountains, we began formulating plans for our time in Nuwara Eliya (and taking an absurd number of pictures from the train window). Here’s a little train view collage:


We got into Nuwara Eliya in the late afternoon. As the sun went down it started to get COLD! I haven’t been in cold weather in like two years, so I was wholly unprepared for how chilly it got overnight up in the Sri Lankan mountains, although I guess I should have known considering the elevation is 1868 m, or 6128 ft. When Stephanie and I went into town to grab dinner, I stopped off in a little shop to get a sweater as well. This proved to be a very important purchase the following morning.

Also, here's the view of Lake Gregory from our hotel (sorry, I procrastinated too long and now can't remember the name of it) and a picture of Stephanie pouring us a tasty cup of Ceylon tea:


Horton Plains National Park

I was only in Nuwara Eliya for one day, and I knew I wanted to hike to World’s End in Horton Plains National Park. It’s over an hour’s drive to Horton Plains, so Stephanie and I arranged for the man who drove us from the train station to our hotel to take us to the park as well. He picked us up super early in the morning (it was freezing, and I was very glad for the sweater I’d bought the night before). The hike wasn’t super challenging or anything, but it was incredibly beautiful. World’s End had a fantastic view, and the trek back out to the park entrance was through a really interesting alpine plain. We also stopped off at lovely Baker’s Falls on our way out.

Sunrise over the cloud forest


Panoramic view of World's End
A little deer friend
Also Baker's Falls
That afternoon, we went to two tea plantations and I spent an ungodly amount of money buying every kind of tea that looked interesting to me. We went to Mackwoods for a tour of their tea factory and then to Bluefield to buy tea. 

On to Ella

Stephanie stuck around in Nuwara Eliya for another day, but I had only a short time in the central highlands so I was keen to get to my next destination, a charming mountain town called Ella. I took the train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella, which took about four hours and featured even more stunning views than the trip from Colombo to Nuwara Eliya. 

I’m kind of a plan-as-you-go traveler, so I booked my hotel in Ella the night before I left (on trusty agoda.com). I got super lucky - Ella’s Edge has an incredible view of the surrounding mountains, the breakfast is gigantic and fabulous and it’s located in a quiet spot just a short walk from the city center.  Here's the afternoon and sunrise view:

There are a couple of good hikes around Ella that I wanted to check out. I decided to start with Ella Rock. Looking on tripadvisor, I found that the trek up to Ella Rock is not particularly well-marked, and that if you go alone guides will try to get you to hire them along the way. A guy at my hotel made me a fairly hilarious hand-drawn “map”, and I’m pretty comfortable getting lost so I figured I would be fine, but I didn’t count on the fact that a woman hiking alone is a super easy target for aggressively “helpful” guides. They do this thing where they talk you into going the wrong way, and then follow you for a while and tell you they’ll “help” you get back on track - for a small fee, of course. I am very embarrassed to say that this happened to me twice (in my defense, the second one was incredibly persuasive, convincing and difficult to shake), and by the time I got to Ella Rock I was feeling disempowered, frustrated and cranky. I shook off the second guide and wandered through a lovely forest over to a cliffside shrine next to this pretty overlook far away from the other tourists. And that’s when the real adventure started. But first, here are some pictures.


Don’t go chasin’ waterfalls, y’all

I was just about to walk back over to the main trail to get back to Ella when I ran into these two super lovely Czech guys, Petr and Karel. They were planning to try to hike down to the bottom of Ravana Falls to go for a swim. I was feeling a little cheated of my own hiking adventure for the day, and definitely not keen to get waylaid by yet another overly solicitous guide, so I asked if I could tag along. Petr told me we would likely be going pretty far off the trail and that there was a chance we wouldn’t even make it to the waterfall. Feeling reckless, I was like, “Awesome let’s go.”

Thus began an epic, hours-long trek down a steep mountainside, first through dense brush and eventually through dusty, ashy, burned-out fields. All three of us scrambled along, occasionally tripping and sliding. A rock hit the back of Karel’s ankle and he started bleeding profusely. Petr cut his hand. We were totally covered in thick, black ash. Ultimately, we realized that we just weren’t going to make it to that waterfall without breaking ourselves and we had to climb all the way back up again. Nevertheless, this was seriously the most fun and memorable day of my trip.

I’d planned to be out for about four hours. With our failed waterfall detour, we ended up being out for about seven hours. Needless to say, I didn’t feel so bad about skipping runs that week, and I had like 32,000 steps on my Fitbit that day.


Gross.
Other things in Ella

After our big day, Petr invited me to join him and Karel for dinner at a guesthouse he had stayed at previously. This lovely old Sri Lankan lady fixed us an epic feast and we ate our faces off. Then we headed down to a little bar around the corner and drank FAR too much Arrack, a local liquor, and Tiger Black (which, incidentally, I would recommend that no one else ever drink EVER… you’ve been warned). The bar itself was hilarious, particularly the majestic lion mural on the wall.


The next morning I was supposed to meet up with Stephanie, who had since made it from Nuwara Eliya to Ella, to hike Little Adam’s Peak for sunrise, but I overslept :/ (possibly due to the aforementioned tragic Tiger Black and Arrack combo). Luckily, we were able to meet up later to walk down the train tracks a few kilometers to Nine Arches and a cute little tea shop.


That afternoon, I hired a car and driver to take me down to Galle to meet up with Zack. There is a bus, but I would have had to leave quite early that morning and I didn’t want to miss my last day in Ella. The private car cost about LRK 10,000 (~USD 65) and only took about five hours - totally worth it to me for the flexibility and napping potential. And thus ended my Sri Lankan mountain adventures! I’ll be back soon with a post on lovely Galle and the reunification of Zack and Elizabeth!

03 January, 2017

Travel update 1: Colombo; also, I hate Air Asia; also, an apology

My dear friends and readers, I am terribly sorry to have gotten so behind (again) on my posts! I have at least three planned for Sri Lanka, plus several weeks worth of weekly updates, plus a few other ideas I’ve been playing around with, like distance running in Vietnam, or thoughts on the election as viewed from abroad, or community theatre in Saigon. Alas, ever since I got back to Vietnam from my October break, I have hardly had a single quiet moment to write. So now I have loads to tell you, but I also don’t want to overload you with like 10 posts all at once. #bloggerstruggles #thestruggleisreal

Anyway, let’s at least get started today with beautiful Sri Lanka. Zack and I were SO ready for this vacation. We were seriously emotionally run down and trying to hide our bad attitudes from our students by the end of the quarter. Here is a picture of us (Zack looks beautiful and I look tired, as usual) drinking terrible Vietnamese beers in the airport.

Often when I travel, I try to project myself into the city or country I’m visiting, wondering if it’s the kind of place I could live. Almost as soon as we stepped our of our charming B&B into the relaxed quiet of Colombo on a Sunday, Zack and I both said we felt like it was the kind of place we could live. I don’t know what it was. Maybe it was the walkable city center, or the delicious curry, or the fact that we could interact so naturally with Sri Lankan people because of their English proficiency, but something about Colombo felt like it would be such a lovely place to live for a while. And now, a Colombo collage:

Before I get into what we got up to in Colombo, I have to say something about the amazing B&B we stayed in, Colpetty House. We loved it there so much we booked another night for our last night in town. Colpetty House was fabulous for many reasons. It’s spacious, quiet and clean and the breakfast is divine, but the real draws for us were the owner, a completely delightful woman named Anushika, and Emma, an Australian woman who was working there when we visited. They both went out of their way to make us feel welcome and at home, and Anushika sat with us for over an hour during breakfast helping us plan our first day in Colombo. At the end of our trip when our return flight was canceled (more on that later), Anushika let us come back and use our room for the rest of the day until they had to clean in preparation for the next guest. Seriously, if you’re headed to Colombo, I cannot recommend Colpetty House highly enough.

Our first day in Colombo, we wandered through a very charming park full of canoodling teenagers, then headed to a super tasty restaurant called Upali’s where we ate hathmaaluwa (mixed vegetable curry, advertised as a 2000-year-old recipe), ala sudata uyala (potato curry in coconut milk), and paan (hearty Sri Lankan bread). Photos to come (after I steal them from Zack).

We wanted to catch the sunset from The Kingsbury, but we had quite a lot of time to kill so, in typical Zack and Elizabeth fashion, we wandered from restaurant to cafe to restaurant, eating and drinking our way through Colombo. Our first stop was Whight & Co, where we obviously had to try some beautiful Ceylon Sapphire tea (by “some” I really mean “three pots of”). Whight & Co. has a great view of the ocean and very classic, clean, nautical-themed decor. Here’s Zack gazing pensively out of the window:

After Whight & Co., we wandered over towards the train station to snag something tasty for dinner. We kind of stumbled upon a roti shop called Pillawoods Hotel, where Zack absolutely lost his mind with excitement:

Finally, as the sun was beginning to set, we wandered over to The Kingsbury, a super fancy-looking hotel with a nice rooftop bar. We sat up there and sipped gin (naturally) and watch the sun set over the ocean. It was a magical first day.

We also inadvertently spent another day in Colombo at the end of our trip because our AirAsia flight was canceled. AirAsia can look super attractive because it’s a discount airline with really cheap tickets, but as with many discount airlines, their service is absolutely terrible (definitely worse than some others I’ve been on like Southwest or EasyJet or RyanAir). They canceled our flight after we’d already arrived at the airport, put us on another flight very late that night (so we missed work the following day), wouldn’t even give us taxi fare back to the city center, and were completely and utterly remorseless when we went to the office to complain. They were basically like, we are under no obligation to run all of the flights we schedule, we are under no obligation to help you in any way when we cancel a flight, and also we don’t care that you are missing work tomorrow. Oh and by the way the reason we didn’t contact you to let you know the flight was canceled was because you booked through a travel website rather than the AirAsia site. Sorry not sorry.

So basically, if you aren’t on a specific timeline I guess taking a gamble with AirAsia would be worth it because it’s so cheap, but if a canceled flight would really mess up your schedule and make you miss work or something, you might want to go with a legit airline.

After our shouting match with AirAsia at the airport, Zack and I dejectedly headed back to Colombo and Colpetty House, where we were so happy to be able to lay down for a little rest. Finally we did get back out for a little wander - we headed over to a store/cafe called Barefoot. They had some really lovely textiles and handicrafts and other souvenir-type things. The other thing they had was live Jazz in their outdoor restaurant (apparently this is an every Sunday thing).

This trip kind of had three parts for me - the city, the mountains and the beach - so it seems logical to split it into three blog posts. So I’ll leave Sri Lanka here for now, and hopefully get back to you in less than 9 weeks with the next installment :)

07 October, 2016

Weekly update 3: In which David and Elizabeth achieve bò kho paradise

Last week was a little crazy because we got hit with the biggest storms I’ve ever seen. We’ve been calling it stormageddon, because of course. But I can’t really explain to you how crazy it was. Like, all of the roads flooded and motorbikes were getting abandoned and washed away and highways turned into rivers, and it was just complete bedlam. Also, I got stuck riding my motorbike in one of the storms and the rain was coming down so hard it was painful, and my rain jacket just wasn’t up to the task of keeping me dry :( The rain kinda derailed a lot of my plans for the week, and I ended up spending a lot of time watching Outlander in my bed. It was kind of like the hibernation I used to do in the winter in Europe and America, except this time it was caused by a monsoon and only lasted a week.

On Thursday the storms broke for long enough that I was able to attend an event hosted by Network Girls at Stoker Woodfired Grill. The wine and snacks were really nice, and Stoker felt like the kind of place that would be great for small events and parties. I probably wouldn’t go there on the regular, but it would be perfect for a special occasion. I’d never been to a Network Girls event before, but I’m so glad that I did because I had a great time catching up with some of the awesome ladies I know here (even though I ended up drinking far too much wine for a Thursday night).

I mentioned in my last weekly update that David and I had tried and failed to get some yummy breakfast bò kho last weekend. What I didn’t say was that this was the third weekend in a row that we had a failed bò kho attempt. Usually bò kho is the main thing I want to eat post-run, and I’d been craving it for like three weeks. Unfortunately, every time I went to one of the bò kho spots in my neighborhood, they had either stopped serving it or run out. So, dear readers, you should be able to imagine my immense joy at finally having a successful bò kho breakfast on Saturday. Here’s a photo:



Bò kho has to be in my top three favorite Vietnamese dishes. It’s basically a beef stew with carrots and onions and a baguette on the side. As with many dishes here, it comes with a huge pile of herbs, chillies and limes so you can adjust everything to your own taste. My mouth is literally watering while I write this, that’s how badly I want to eat bò kho every day of my life. Mmmmmmmm.

Later on Saturday, David and I headed over to Càfê RuNam to meet up with Missy and have a coffee (or five). Càfê RuNam is pretty ornate on the inside. I actually found it quite charming, although Zack thought it was a bit tacky. What followed was truly extravagant consumption of beverages and pastries, at least on my end. Pretty sure Missy and David ordered a reasonable number of things. Meanwhile, I ordered pretty much everything on the menu (whatever, I was really hungry after my morning run).

Next up: Weekly update 4 in which Elizabeth has anxiety dreams about her leftovers, and Travel update 1 in which Elizabeth and Zack go to Sri Lankaaahhhhhh! See y’all soon :)