Weekly update 3: In which David and Elizabeth achieve bò kho paradise

Last week was a little crazy because we got hit with the biggest storms I’ve ever seen. We’ve been calling it stormageddon, because of course. But I can’t really explain to you how crazy it was. Like, all of the roads flooded and motorbikes were getting abandoned and washed away and highways turned into rivers, and it was just complete bedlam. Also, I got stuck riding my motorbike in one of the storms and the rain was coming down so hard it was painful, and my rain jacket just wasn’t up to the task of keeping me dry :( The rain kinda derailed a lot of my plans for the week, and I ended up spending a lot of time watching Outlander in my bed. It was kind of like the hibernation I used to do in the winter in Europe and America, except this time it was caused by a monsoon and only lasted a week.

On Thursday the storms broke for long enough that I was able to attend an event hosted by Network Girls at Stoker Woodfired Grill. The wine and snacks were really nice, and Stoker felt like the kind of place that would be great for small events and parties. I probably wouldn’t go there on the regular, but it would be perfect for a special occasion. I’d never been to a Network Girls event before, but I’m so glad that I did because I had a great time catching up with some of the awesome ladies I know here (even though I ended up drinking far too much wine for a Thursday night).

I mentioned in my last weekly update that David and I had tried and failed to get some yummy breakfast bò kho last weekend. What I didn’t say was that this was the third weekend in a row that we had a failed bò kho attempt. Usually bò kho is the main thing I want to eat post-run, and I’d been craving it for like three weeks. Unfortunately, every time I went to one of the bò kho spots in my neighborhood, they had either stopped serving it or run out. So, dear readers, you should be able to imagine my immense joy at finally having a successful bò kho breakfast on Saturday. Here’s a photo:



Bò kho has to be in my top three favorite Vietnamese dishes. It’s basically a beef stew with carrots and onions and a baguette on the side. As with many dishes here, it comes with a huge pile of herbs, chillies and limes so you can adjust everything to your own taste. My mouth is literally watering while I write this, that’s how badly I want to eat bò kho every day of my life. Mmmmmmmm.

Later on Saturday, David and I headed over to Càfê RuNam to meet up with Missy and have a coffee (or five). Càfê RuNam is pretty ornate on the inside. I actually found it quite charming, although Zack thought it was a bit tacky. What followed was truly extravagant consumption of beverages and pastries, at least on my end. Pretty sure Missy and David ordered a reasonable number of things. Meanwhile, I ordered pretty much everything on the menu (whatever, I was really hungry after my morning run).

Next up: Weekly update 4 in which Elizabeth has anxiety dreams about her leftovers, and Travel update 1 in which Elizabeth and Zack go to Sri Lankaaahhhhhh! See y’all soon :)

Weekly Update 2: In which Elizabeth finally visits Gin House

I really set myself up for failure by calling this a “weekly” update… Clearly I’m already getting behind, so, sorry.  But that just means that I have two weekly updates to post in the next couple of days!

Last Friday a group of teachers from my school had a Big Night Out.  We went to Warda, a Lebanese restaurant on Mạc Thị Bưởi.  I would highly recommend it if you’re craving Middle Eastern food.  The mezze were really nice, especially the baba ganoush.  I’ve also heard that they have really nice shisha.  I’d go into more detail, but alas, I again forgot to take pictures because I was feasting exuberantly. 

After Warda, we went to Gin House (where I did remember to take pictures!).  I’ve been wanting to go here for a while.  Any of you who know me well know how much I, as a 90-year-old WASPy lady, love my gin.  Gin House definitely delivered.  They have a huge list of different house-infused gins.  I tried the rose and hibiscus one and the vanilla and orchid one.  Oh my heavens, y’all.  I think I found my new favorite bar. 

Saturday morning I got up early for my weekly long run.  I don’t have a lot that is noteworthy to say about this, but I do want to share some really lovely pictures I took!  Five miles into my run I got to the top of a bridge (bridges are the only “hills” to train on here) and stopped for some water, and to my right was this beautiful view.  Behind me was a giant divided highway, but in front of me was miles and miles of jungle and river.  Sometimes southern Vietnam is such a magical place.  Moments like that just catch you off guard.  Also, here is a picture of me looking like a sweaty monster.  You're welcome.

After my run I was in serious need of some food and some R&R (as you can see in that photo), so David and I walked down our alley to try out a new bò kho place I had run by earlier.  Unfortunately, that was closed, but right next door was a phở spot that we hadn’t tried before.  It was for sure the best phở I’ve gotten near my house – the broth was really flavorful and the beef was super nice.  Now, I’m not going to be like that Bon Appétit guy and try to tell you how to eat phở, but I’m personally a fan of loading up the herbs, pickled garlic and lime, with a few chilies to give it some kick, like this:

After some much-needed phở and cà phê đá, David and I headed to the salon in my building to get our hair washed, along with a 45-minute scalp massage.  If you ever come visit me out here, this is the first thing I am taking you to do.  Scalp massages are more or less the best thing in my life.

 Saturday night I had two birthday parties to attend, both with a costume theme (James Bond and heroes and villains).  I definitely had to stop off for some mì xào at my favorite alley spot for a pre-drinking dinner.  Mì xào is one of my favorite dishes.  It's basically noodles stir-fried with veggies (usually morning glory, carrot and green onion), either eggs or meat, and a super yummy sweet/salty sauce.  This lovely lady makes it just how I like it, with lots of greens and two eggs:

 Zack and I did a couples costume (naturally) for the heroes and villains party.  Zack was Rachel Roy aka Becky with the good hair and I was Rachael Ray aka a thick Sicilian woman who is a blessing.  Here are some pictures from the night:

Naturally I stayed out too late and, for some reason, took a video of myself on the back of my Grab bike (motorbike taxi service, kind of like Uber) explaining why I had taken a motorbike taxi instead of a real taxi.  What a way to end the week.  

Next up: Weekly Update 3: In which Elizabeth actually posts on time like a responsible human who keeps to her commitments.  See y'all soon!